A Gateway Town Born from the Tokaido Era
Long before Senju became a lively ward of modern Tokyo, it served as one of four designated shukuba-machi (post towns) on the outskirts of Edo. Established in 1594, Senju-juku was the first post station on the Nikko Kaido and Oshu Kaido roads — the principal routes heading north from the capital. Every traveler departing Edo by these roads passed through Senju, making it one of the busiest and most economically vital towns in the region.
The Old Senju Bridge: A Symbol of Departure
At the heart of Senju's historical identity stands the Senju Ohashi — the Great Bridge of Senju — which spanned the Arakawa River. Built in 1594, it was one of the few bridges permitted across the major rivers near Edo, a deliberate policy by the Tokugawa shogunate to control movement and defense. Crossing this bridge was a moment of significance: it was here that the poet Matsuo Basho set out on his famous journey in 1689, immortalized in the opening lines of Oku no Hosomichi (Narrow Road to the Deep North).
"The months and days are the travellers of eternity... I too for years past have been stirred by the sight of a solitary cloud drifting with the wind to foolish wanderings." — Matsuo Basho, 1689
A small monument near the Senju Bridge commemorates Basho's departure — a quiet but profound reminder of the neighborhood's literary heritage.
Life as a Post Town
Life in Senju-juku revolved around serving travelers. The town was filled with:
- Honjin and Waki-honjin — official lodging houses for samurai, daimyo, and court officials
- Hatago — inns for ordinary travelers and merchants
- Tea houses and food stalls — providing refreshment before the long journey ahead
- Wholesale fish markets — Senju became a major hub for fresh fish transported from the Pacific coast to Edo's consumers
The fish market legacy, in particular, left a lasting imprint on the neighborhood's culture. Senju's connection to seafood trade shaped its culinary identity and its reputation as a place of commerce and industry.
The Meiji Era and Beyond
When the Meiji government modernized Japan in the late 19th century, Senju adapted rather than faded. The arrival of the railroad transformed the town from a foot-traffic hub into an industrial district. Factories, schools, and civic infrastructure replaced many of the old inns, and Senju began to grow into the urban neighborhood it is today.
Yet traces of the old post town survived: narrow lanes, traditional shop fronts, and the overall dense, human-scale layout of the streets still echo the Edo-period grid in parts of Kita-Senju.
Exploring Senju's History Today
Visitors interested in Senju's deep history should consider:
- The Senju Historical Museum (足立区立郷土博物館) in nearby Adachi — excellent exhibits on the post-town era
- The Basho Departure Monument near Senju Ohashi
- Araiya — one of the oldest remaining restaurants in Senju, with roots stretching back several generations
- The old Senju-juku streetscape along Kyumachi-dori, where some traditional facades still remain
Why History Still Matters Here
Senju is often described as one of Tokyo's most "lived-in" neighborhoods — unpretentious, functional, and deeply communal. That character didn't emerge by accident. Four centuries of welcoming travelers, traders, and workers gave Senju a hospitality-oriented soul that modern residents and visitors still sense today. Understanding where Senju came from makes it far easier to appreciate what it has become.